Stoical and straightforward, Jeremy Nolen does not mince words, especially on the subject of his beloved German cuisine. Jeremy’s deep-seeded interest in German food stems from his family. Father Ron Nolen, trained in classical French and European techniques, was an acclaimed chef in the Reading, Allentown/Bethlehem area in Pennsylvania. Chef Ron imparted his love of artisan charcuterie, ethnic cuisines, and hand crafted foods to his son at a young age. Family trips to Europe enhanced Jeremy’s palette and wanderlust. The Nolen’s went beyond the typical American tourist family to discover cuisine by seeking out off-the-beaten-path ethnic neighborhoods and their butcher and specialty shops with meats salted, smoked, and cured in traditional ways. Visiting spread out family year after year, Jeremy grew up eating in local bistros and restaurants throughout the United States and eventually Europe, including German, France, England, Ireland, Luxembourg, Belgium, and the Netherlands and identifying those experiences as the fabric of his cooking passion.
Working with food alongside his father was a no-brainer and a study base for becoming a great chef. Father Ron was an apprentice chef of the 70’s and believes learning must be passed down through the traditions of butchery, making pastas and baking breads. Apprenticed under Ron at a Reading, PA, country club, 13-year-old Jeremy learned the business of large-scale catering too. At 23 Jeremy presided over the kitchen of Liederkranz, a German restaurant in Reading and gained his chops running the kitchen and creating a truly German-inspired menu.
Next, Jeremy anchored the Speckled Hen, the English gastro-pub in Reading, and enjoyed spinning classic English dishes into flavorful renditions of entrees such as braised rabbit, Shepherd’s Pie, and stuffed trout. From 2003 until 2006, Jeremy was the executive chef at the Crown Plaza, Allentown, and the Gateway Conference Center in Bethlehem, PA.
Searching out new turf, Jeremy came to Philadelphia and worked at Bridget Foys until landing the sous chef position and opening 707 Restaurant and Bar. From there he opened Coquette as the sous chef and quickly rose to executive chef after the departure of the opening chef. Jeremy took a classic approach to French cookery. He arrived in the morning to butcher all his meats and make stocks from scratch that would become the eight or so sauces he created for the menu. Jeremy delighted in taking raw items and painstakingly preparing and transforming them into Coquette specialties such as the duck rillettes, served with toasted bread, cornichons, and currants, or a rich chicken liver pâté, a simple starter that is served with French bread and whipped butter.
For Jeremy, Philadelphia needed a German restaurant, an outlet to showcase his love of German food and to bring to Philadelphia a modern approach to German cooking. Jeremy, along with his pastry chef wife Jessica, were hired by Doug and Kelly Hager to open Philadelphia’s only authentic German restaurant and beer hall, Brauhaus Schmitz. The restaurant was opened to rave reviews from magazines, newspapers, online food blogs, and repeat guests. He achieved this through a philosophy of taking fresh raw ingredients and creating modern renditions of authentic German cuisine. Jeremy is busy planning the special menus and imparting his love of food preservation through curing, smoking, drying and salting – don’t doubt for one minute that homemade sausage, pâté, pickles, mustards, and breads will be coming out of his kitchen faster than you can say guten appetit!
